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Tag - Dégustation

lundi 6 janvier 2020

SCHISTES VS CALCAIRE, CARIGNAN Edition

To read the article at Miquel Hudin’s website and discover the wines, please follow this link.

Mas de Saporta is a curious place. On the outskirts of Montpellier, France and technically in the town of Lattes, it’s an old farmstead that, as modernity grew up around it, was swallowed whole as various highways and train lines drilled right through it. While nothing is farmed there now, the historic house has remained and its 17th century (or older) walls now encompass a variety of entities, including a shop for the wines of Languedoc, a restaurant, and an event space which is where, at the end of the November I found myself amongst French Carignan producers.

The idea had been in the works for some time by the associations of Carignan Renaissance to work with Terroirs de Schistes to have a Carignan throw down and show the differences between wines produced from schiste or “slate” soils, versus calcaire or “limestone” soils. One wine from each soil was submitted by the cellars who participated and they were matched up by year. Wines had to be unoaked so as to allow full varietal and soil character to come out.

Initially there was a lecture about schist by Jacques Fanet, who wrote a book, aptly-titled, “Les terroirs du vin” and he took us on a whirlwind tour talking about how schist is formed and the various sites in the winemaking world that lay claim to it. Quite interesting overall to see how many high-quality regions sit atop this crumbling, mineral-poor soil.

Then we delved into the tasting. As was noted by some in attendance (who happened to be English oddly enough), this was not a scientific tasting as wines were presented non-blind. Yes, that could easily affect perceptions and if done again, it should probably be blind. But, taking that away, it was interesting to note that the Carignans grown on the different soils did indeed have different profiles. It’s true that winemaking styles play a factor in this as well but some overall trends seemed to emerge.

Wines from limestone soils appeared to be softer overall with longer finishes and anyone brought up on Burgundy being the pinnacle of winemaking (such as in the UK) would easily gravitate towards these wines a bit more. Overall the slate wines were more ready to drink, better fleshed out, and with a more sinewy structure.

As to which was better, that’s impossible to say as it’s a matter of taste. Carignan is by its nature a bit rock and roll when made well. So it could be that some find limestone or clay to produce a softer, less pronounced wine that they can get into more. Then again, the grape doesn’t have the rigid backbone of Grenache and the slate slims the wine up and gives it more verve, which, while making it more direct, also makes it really exciting balancing its innate characteristics quite well.

For me personally, I’m more accustomed to the slate version due to where I live, but I’m readily open to the limestone take as well and you’ll note that my scoring spread is pretty evenly split. My only criteria is that the wine be well made.

It’s best for one to drink and decide for themselves ultimately, so have a look at the wine database as well as the notes below for the wines we tasted. Note that 2018 Carignan wines by Chateau de la Liquière and Clos du Gravillas where tasted but were Brut de Cuve (“tank samples”) and were showing a bit off due to them being taken earlier this year for when this was to happen in April.

Great tasting overall though and I look forward to whatever they have in store for the future, especially as the Carignan association has just changed up leadership.

mercredi 25 juin 2014

Réunion et dégustation au Mas Mellet - Costères de Nîmes

Au programme : des Carignans d’ici et des Carignans d’ailleurs...

Mas Mellet Carignan Renaissance © Vinparleur 2014 Mas Mellet Carignan Renaissance © Vinparleur 2014 Mas Mellet Carignan Renaissance © Vinparleur 2014 Mas Mellet Carignan Renaissance © Vinparleur 2014 Mas Mellet Carignan Renaissance © Vinparleur 2014 Mas Mellet Carignan Renaissance © Vinparleur 2014 Mas Mellet Carignan Renaissance © Vinparleur 2014 Mas Mellet Carignan Renaissance © Vinparleur 2014 Mas Mellet Carignan Renaissance © Vinparleur 2014 Mas Mellet Carignan Renaissance © Vinparleur 2014

mercredi 16 avril 2014

#Carignan Story : # 2011 : il est fort ce Fortant !

Après ma fabuleuse dégustation de la veille à Daumas Gassac, suivie d’un grand « tasting » prolongé par une brillante soirée organisée de mains de maître par Olivier Raynal des Caves du Roussillon assisté de l’expertise technique du maestro Hervé Bizeul, tout cela en prélude de Vinisud, j’avais décidé de me coucher raisonnablement tôt, c’est-à-dire avant minuit. La raison voulait en effet que je puisse me présenter parmi les premiers le lendemain matin à l’ouverture des portes du salon professionnel, afin de repérer les lieux.

Photo©MichelSmith

Car j’avais une mission délicate à accomplir. Pour la seconde fois cette année, je co-animais avec Sebastian Nickel le plus bénévolement du monde une conférence-dégustation (il y a un autre mot pour cela) dans l’importante zone du salon occupée par le mastodonte régional qu’est devenu Sud de France. Du tire-bouchon que j’ai mis dans ma poche (mille excuses) à la température des vins, tout avait été parfaitement organisé, je dois le dire : la salle était pleine à craquer, les échantillons choisis par nous illustraient bien les différentes approches autour du cépage méditerranéen, et quelques représentants de Carignan Renaissance étaient-là pour nous soutenir.

Continuez la lecture sur Les5duvin

mardi 19 mai 2015

#CarignanDay Lundi 08 juin : « À la redécouverte du Carignan »

Table ronde suivi d’une dégustation de Carignans

À partir de 17h30 (fin vers 21h)
SupAgro campus de la Gaillarde, 2 place Pierre Viala, 34060 Montpellier
.
Événement réservé aux professionnels, entrée libre.
Inscription (obligatoire) et renseignements auprès de : carignanrenaissance@gmail.com

La table ronde est suivi d’une soirée dégustation en présence des vignerons au Trinque Fougasse Nord (Repas et autres boissons au frais des participants).

Seront présents pour faire déguster leurs Carignans :
Jean-Marie Rimbert - Domaine Rimbert
John Bojanowski - Clos du Gravillas
Brigitte Chevalier - Domaine de Cébène
Remi Duchemin - Plan de l’Homme (à confirmer !)
Julien Gil - Plô Roucarels
Déborah Core - Mas Gabriel

Adresse Trinque Fougasse Nord
1581 Route de Mende
34090 Montpellier Trinque Fougasse Nord